India - Varanasi, the Ganges

I had both read and heard that a trip to northern India must include Varanasi. This is one of the locations of River Ganga, which is considered by Hindu followers to be holy water. India is so crowded with people, cars, and animals, that I was looking forward to a serene as well as pristine place. It turned out to be nothing like I envisioned. Honestly you have to see it to believe it.

After finding a hotel in Varanasi, I put my backpack down and headed to the Ganges. To get to the holy river I had to go through narrow, windy, stone alleyways filled with people, small carts, and water buffalos. Once at the river I found more of the same hectic surroundings.

Instead of finding unadulterated water in a peaceful surrounding, there were people and animals everywhere doing all kinds of activities in and outside of the water. From my point of view the water could not have been more polluted. People were bathing and washing dirty clothes in the same location. Oh yeah, they were also washing their water buffalos there as well.

As a matter of fact, I was almost run over by a pair of water buffalos. I was sitting on the steps just watching the scene around me, when 2 water buffalos in the middle of a sexual act came running/hopping forward at me. I had to very quickly jump up from my seat and get out of their way. I was lucky I was not trampled by 2 pleasure seeking buffalos.

Not only are people, clothing, and animals all washed in the same location, but people are also cremated next to the water. Many people come to Varanasi to die and then are cremated at the river. After the cremation a person's ashes and rib cage are tossed into the river. Yes, this is the same location in which you will find people brushing their teeth. Shocking!

I thought it would be nice to take an early morning boat ride on the Ganges. I arranged for a sunrise boat trip. It was a small boat that fit about a handful of people. This happened to be a quiet time. For the most part the only people at the river were meditating.

I knew at this point not to touch the water. Although the people of India may be used to this water, my body certainly was not. My decision to not drink or even touch this water was reconfirmed as a wise decision during my boat ride. I thought I saw a dead pig float by. After a closer look the pinkish object was in fact a dead baby. I was told that babies are not to be cremated but rather should be placed in the holy water whole.

My definition of holy water and how it is handled is completely different from how holy water is treated in India. I consider holy water to be pristine or untouched, especially by the masses. In India holy water is used to purify and one should bathe or completely immerse oneself in it to wash away any sins. This is not so different from purification rituals in many religions around the world. The difference for me was the washing of everyone and everything en masse.

This is definitely a sight to be seen. Many people do find inspiration and peace in Varanasi.